Kitchener, Ontario, October, 2007
I'm lying in a cold bunk on a very cold Second Class train across the Rajasthan Desert of India. 
Do I think of the Maharajahs from the ancient world? Do I consider that this is the place where much of the civilized world began? Do I think of the adventures that lie ahead? No. I think of 'KW Surplus'. It was here that I got the sleeping bag that is keeping Aw warm. Mom took me here just before I left for Asia and on a whim, I picked up some items that ended up saving my bacon on my trip. And the things I bought were sooooooo inexpensive. So here's my salute to you, KW, and of course here's to you Mom!
I'm lying in a cold bunk on a very cold Second Class train across the Rajasthan Desert of India. 
Do I think of the Maharajahs from the ancient world? Do I consider that this is the place where much of the civilized world began? Do I think of the adventures that lie ahead? No. I think of 'KW Surplus'. It was here that I got the sleeping bag that is keeping Aw warm. Mom took me here just before I left for Asia and on a whim, I picked up some items that ended up saving my bacon on my trip. And the things I bought were sooooooo inexpensive. So here's my salute to you, KW, and of course here's to you Mom!
You have to always be thinking of the next part of your journey in India. You can't just hop on a train or bus. You have to decide a few days ahead where you are going next and buy the tickets. I have a view from here that looks over the town from this restaurant in the Fort. I might look impressive to Aw as I pore over these documents but if she know what my family knows; that I have virtually no sense of direction and have only got this far in India by dumb luck, she would be panic. But I'm the MAN. I am supposed to know my way around. Here's a desert riddle for you. 'Why did it take Moses 40 years to bring the chosen people to the Promised Land? Answer: Because even in those days, a man was afraid to ask for directions.'
I really like the Camel bags. The workmanship is very nice. I bought one myself. It cost 550 rupees ($15 CAD). This is the man who makes them. Here's a little trivia about camels. They are worth the same alive as dead. You can buy a camel at the auction for about $300 CAD. 
Our friend here owns a great second hand book shop. He was playing some modern Hindu music when we walked in. Aw loved it and he burned a CD of the music for her as a gift. I mention this because it is so refreshing to meet someone here who does something without expecting anything in return. We spend a lot of energy every day just watching out for the people who are always trying to sell us things so this bookstore was an oasis for us. The other thing I really like, is how Aw has a magical way with so many people she meets. They just take an instant liking to her. Even though she is from another country, she fits in very well here.
We come to one of the highest points in Jaisalmer Fort. It still has it's canons but I don't think they work. You can see the desert city behind Aw. It's a typical desert area; hot in the day and cold at night. There is very little vegetation here. What I love, is to think that a person looking out from here 400 years ago, saw a very similar sight to what we see now. For Aw, this isn't such a big deal. She is from Thailand; a Kingdom that has been around for almost ten thousand years. But for me, a Canadian, I am very impressed when I see the ancient worlds. Canada is only 140 years old, so this is pretty exciting to see. I get a very good feeling standing here and I look forward to the adventure ahead.
...And it is COLD...damned cold. We were asked if we wanted an air-conditioned sleeper. Why should we want an air-conditioned train when we're already too cold? Well, the answer is: because otherwise you have a train full of leaky windows that push the freezing air over you all night. Mom, you remember that little sleeping bag I bought in Kitchener just before I left? It has saved our bacon so many times I can't even count. This is one of those nights. the berths are very narrow ; like sleeping on a plank or a stretcher with a thin foam cover. I can barely sleep at all. I give the sleeping bag to Aw and I put the only thing I have left; a single cotton bed sheet, over me. It's not so bad when the train is moving slowly but when it picks up speed, the icy wind whistles through the train and I shiver so bad my teeth are clacking. I get a perverse comfort from looking down at the lower bunk where she is snuggled into the bag with only her wool cap sticking out. Thais are just the right size for these sleepers. It gives me a satisfaction to know that even if I die of cold tonight, at least she will survive to tell our story.
We stop early in the morning for some chai and a somosa before completing our fifteen hour journey to Jaisalmer. It's great to finally feel some warmth after such an incredibly cold night.