Hoi An 'Airstrip' Family

Hoi An, Vietnam, March 24 2006

I've now done a full tour of the 14th Century City of Hoi An and a tour of 'My Son'. I've been traveling since 10am this morning and now we're heading to my driver's home town.
Bonsoon takes me through some beautiful countryside. It's amazing what you can do with a simple camera on the back of a motor bike.
I see many women out in the rice paddies, and lots of water buffalo. I also keep seeing these plastic bags on sticks. I think they are used like scare-crows, to keep birds away but I'm not sure.
Finally we came to this wide deteriorating tar mack surface. Bonsoon explained that this was a U.S. Military Air strip that was used during the 'American War' by the B-52 bombers, to conduct their bombing raids on North Vietnam. Now it's just a big deserted road used by the local villagers.
Bonsoon took me to meet his family. Bonsoon is on the right. Next to him is his little sister, then his father, his mother, his aunt and his brother. My driver helps to support his family with money he makes in Hoi An. He is a qualified Civil Engineer but is out of work right now. That's why he is driving me around. The family offered me dinner and some beer to drink.
When we were finished eating, I walked outside to find many of the villagers standing around to get a glimpse of their foreign guest. The children were especially excited to meet me and made a point of playing and running around in front of me so they could have their pictures taken.
These are the neighbors up the street. Bonsoon wanted them to meet his new Canadian friend. bonsoon's dad and I had a great talk about the War. He was an aircraft mechanic for the American army. He told me it was an amazing time in his life. He enjoyed working on the huge bombers but he said the village was constantly afraid of being targeted by North Vietnam aircraft. He said the village was actually bombed many times but his family was never harmed. He said the village became almost a ghost town after the war but that it has recovered quite a bit in recent years. As I drove through the village on my way back to Hoi Ann, everyone kept waving and smiling as if I was a celebrity. Here, as in so many places in Vietnam, I feel so welcome. Finally my very long day is drawing to a close. My butt is sore after nine of intensive touring. So here we are, speeding out of town, waving good bye to the wonderful people of his village when he turns to me and says: "So how about some Karaoke..."

My Son Ruins

Hoi An, Vietnam, March 24 2006

I don't know what possessed me to think I should see everything in the Hoi An area in one day but I did. After a few hours looking around the City, I looked in my 'Let's Go' travel guide and decided it made sense to see 'My Son'. What was I thinking?

The trip took us an hour and a half by motor bike, in the blazing sun. Bonsoon never seems to get tired and I refuse to act my age so off we go.

I want to show you what it looks like as you tour this country. The architecture is very interesting and the quality of the workmanship is very high.
As we head into the rural towns we see many more bicycles and fewer motor bikes. Sometimes it's astounding to me just how much stuff they haul this way.

I saw lots of trucks like this one, which seem to be left over from the 'American War', although I wonder if they're even older than that. It's amazing that they are still running so well after all these years.
And here you see the old and new together. The traditional homes are still standing but there are many brand new structures springing up everywhere.
We finally arrive at the 'My Son' Ruins. This ancient city was built in the 4th Century and is now a UNESCO site. I was greeted by 50 Tour guides in training; mostly young girls, who were delighted to have me join them as they toured the sight while learning how to conduct the tour themselves. One girl started interviewing me. "So how do you feel?" she asked as we all piled into the Van that took us to the site. "Cramped." I replied, and they all laughed. I felt really welcome here.
Here is one of the Temples on the Site. One of my Tour Guide Cuties is posing for me to show the size of the structure. 'My Son' is primarily a Hindu civilization. Much of the work to uncover it's secrets are just taking place now. And one of the biggest financial contributors to the excavation is the United States Government.
This is one of the Carvings that was found when they pulled back the jungle to reveal this City. I have no shortage of lovely guides to pose for the photos.
I later ran into this man from Vietnam who was on vacation, like me. As I said before, the big difference in Vietnam is that the people of this Country tour right along with the foreigners. You rarely see this in Thailand.
This Guide was one of the best English speakers of the group. I was a celebrity to them and they were as honored to be with me as I was to join them. We all laughed together and had a wonderful time comparing our cultures and talking about our common dreams to explore this planet.
This is a couple I met as I finished my look around the site. People are so approachable here.
Bonsoon waited at the gate to the Site while I did my tour. I have ridden with him on his motor bike since ten this morning and it's three in the afternoon now. We have another hour and a half ride back to Hoi An. As we head out he mentions that his home town is nearby. He asks me if I would like to meet his family. So naturally I say yes. My butt is going to need a blood transfusion when this day is done. And off we go to his village.