Retiring In Siem Reap

Siem Reap, Cambodia, April 12, 2007
This is a story from my recent trip to Cambodia.

Dennis is from Canada. I met him in Chiang Mai, Thailand in 2005. We were both looking for postcards and struck up a conversation. We ended up traveling together for the next month in Thailand. [Read The Story Here]
Dennis was taking a year off to cycle around Asia when I met him. That might not sound so amazing until you realize that Dennis over sixty years old. We've kept in touch since then. Then last year he wrote to say he had met a woman in Siem Reap, Cambodia and that they were going to settle down together. He wants to work in Canada for a couple more years to build up a better pension before retiring in Siem Reap with his sweetie.
Aw and I are here in Siem Reap right now, so I wrote Dennis on the chance he might be here right now, too. It turns out he's back in Canada working. I asked him if he would send some photos of his partner and new baby. His partner's name is 'Kunthea'. What a lovely woman. Dennis looked at the other stories I wrote about Siem Reap and recognizes some of the people we met. He says he knows the restaurants and waitresses shown in my stories here. He also tells me that their home in Seim Reap is only four minutes from where we are right now. And this is their new baby; 'Angel'. Sorry Dennis but I'm just guessing from the name that your baby is a girl, right? Angel will celebrate (her?) first birthday on May 17th. What a great pair they are. Way to go Dennis. This is an amazing step to be making at this time in your life. I wish the three of you, all the best. You're moving to a wonderful City. Many foreigners are retiring here in Siem Reap. It's very inexpensive to live here and the City is showing amazing progress economically. I find it easy to travel for a thousand dollars (CAD) per month in Cambodia. You can imagine from that figure, how well you could do on a pension.

Sawadee Ice

My travelling buddy from last year; Dennis; sent me some photos of himself at work in Northern Alberta.

He's working as a framing Carpenter for a few months. And by the look of things, he seems to be having the time of his life.

I just want you to know it's not all fun and games for me Dennis...well maybe it is...

The one thing Dennis and I do have in common these days though, is that we're both getting in shape. I've lost another 2 kilograms in the last week or so.

You're looking good too Dennis. Remember, what does not kill us will make us lose weight. See you in the warmer climates soon. Sawadee kee-kee-krupppp.

Khon Kaen:(2) Cobra Strikes and Ostrich Bites

We started our day with a tour of the Village outside Khon Kaen.

We went to the local Temple which was built 200 years ago and the painted surfaces are still intact after all these years.

As we walked back, more and more people kept showing up and we kept saying hello. By the time we were back to Sit and Nu's home, we felt we were the stars of a parade.

I took this picture of the people who wanted to greet the Farangs.

After a wonderful breakfast we headed to...Okay, this wasn't breakfast. It's the scorpion that was at our front door when we got up this morning. 'Sit' took it out and dropped it back over the Stone fence of his yard.

But these guys? They are alive and they are to eat. They cost 20 baht a piece. Put in your orders while supplies last.

We all hopped in a Pickup truck (Dennis and I rode in the back) and we went to town to see where they make the silk products. You would have loved to watch these women on the looms, Mel. Khon Kaen is world renowned for having the best silk anywhere.

Monkey is modelling a silk sash she bought. 300 baht. EEK it's cheap eh Melissa?

Then it was on to the Temple where Buddha's remains are interred. This is Monkey, Kow (which means 'Nine') and Nu. Kow and I became great buddies when I helped him learn to swim in a reservoir we picnicked at. He is a tennis player, rated 25th in his town. He's also a great checkers player. I nick named him 'Kato'. He is Sit and Nu's nephew and is going to join Monkey in Bangkok for a while where he will take more tennis training and learn to use the Internet.

Dennis really knows how to hit that bell. It makes a wooden bong that is very powerful.

This is the King Cobra Project. This little guy risks his life to dodge a deadly Cobra for tips.

And this is the biggest of all the Cobras. I thought maybe the snakes would have been drugged for this show but they move incredibly fast. I would hate to see what he pays for his medical plan.

Jook wasn't smiling a moment later when this Ostrich nipped her. This ostrich reserve is inside a military base where Sit was a Colonel.

We spent two days looking at fascinating animals and temples and forests. Sit and Nu treated us like royalty. I really have so much to write about on this trip but I have so many other stories I'm dying to tell about what happened just after this weekend that I will just leave it for now. All I can say mom is: I'm glad my trip is winding down...

Kohn Kaen And the 6 Week Tweak

So now that I am no longer a fugitive from the Thailand Authorities, I decided it was time to carry on with my trekking. Monkey had been planning a trip to see her parents in Khon Kaen for some time. It was supposed to be 12 talkative women crammed in a Van for 6 hours. So naturally when Monkey asked Dennis and me to join them we said yes. At the last minute, the plans fell apart and it ended up being just the four of us. I should add here that the flash on my camera bit the dust as we arrived so the pictures in dark rooms will not be the same for a while.

Monkey's Dad is 'Sit' and his wife is 'Stay'. No they are not. I just did that to make my sister laugh again. She's still getting over the fact that Jook's two sisters are 'Red' and 'Green'. Sit's wife's name is Nu. Sit is a retired colonel in the Tank Corps of Thailand. His job was to fix the equipment when if broke down in the field. That means that when everyone was busy shooting at the tank, his job was to crawl underneath and fix it while becoming a target for everything that can crack off a shot at him. Nice work if you can get it.

this is us arriving at 1am Saturday morning. Sit and Nu casually came out and made us a late night snack while we relaxed. I kept thinking all weekend long about Melissa's 6 week tweak as I looked at how these people live.

Notice the walls. Very simple. The living room where Dennis and I slept, just a couple of fold up mattresses on a straw mat.

How about this for a complete kitchen Meliss?

I wanted to show all of you something that I just never got it through my head until now. The people in Thailand keep their homes very simple. But I always assumed it was because they didn't have the money to have more. But that's not the case at all. They keep their places simple because they don't need fortresses of stuff. They have each other and the home is a place to wash, do some simple cooking, and sleep. There is no one upmanship in the Thai home. They do not define their lives by what they own. When they visit each other, they bring food for everyone to share; like here where Monkey brought something that tastes like a cross between wheat and cotton Candie. It gets rolled up in soft sweet tortilla type wrap and and that's how we ate it. That and water. We drink lots and lots of water.

Washing the dishes. The dishes don't need to match. They are for eating on.

(This is Kow and Sit having breakfast)
Here's the other thing about the Thai people. They keep themselves very clean. They keep their clothes fresh and neat and they wash themselves often. You might think that because of the scenes I show from Bangkok, that they don't care about sanitation. It's just that they don't need to sterilize their world to live in it. The are like many aboriginal people. They adapt to their world. They don't destroy it like we do and build something totally alien. When I ask Monkey or Jook about it they simply say: "Is way of Buddha."

And here is the secret to them keeping from becoming obese. They don't eat dairy products and they don't eat much sugar. They automatically have avoided the two strongest addictions in Western Culture. I'm sure many of you will write me to correct my thinking on this, but I find that with all the food they eat, they eat a lot of vegetables, a lot of fish and very little meat.

So as you can see, it's not that they don't have the money, because almost every Thai has a Cellular phone, and a sophisticated one at that. It's that they choose what technology they will take on.

Ramses IV is venerated as the King who brought Thailand into the technological world while at the same time, keeping the balance with traditional Buddhist values.

One other question I had for Monkey. Why are there so few bicycles and so many motorcycles in Thailand. Why don't you do what China does? Her answer was: "China is poor. We are not."

Dennis; Chick Magnet 2

Perhaps I haven't properly expressed Dennis's ability to attract people to him. I have made a lot of jokes about how the women can't resist him. The truth is, everyone likes him. He is the most recognizable person in Thailand. Everyone calls him 'Santa'. But, since I seem to have given a false impression of our situation here, let me add for the record, that these are just nice women who like to have their pictures taken with him. In reality we live a very quiet life here in Paradise. Dennis is available for birthdays, but he is booked through the Christmas holidays...

This is the woman who arranged our transport to Koh Tao. Dennis just asked for her to pose for this picture and she melted into his arms.

This is Yoko from Japan. She does Tai Massage in Koh Toa. She was another big fan of Santa.

This seems to be a massage theme. This woman gave Santa a Thai massage on Koh Tao as well. Okay, we have gone for a lot of Thai massage. "You just keep taking the pictures Steve", Dennis kept saying. "It's something you're good at."

Koh Phangan (Caw-Fenang)

Dennis and I finally left Koh Tao on March 9th by boat to check out the next island south, Koh Phangan (Koh being the Thai word for Island). I rode on the Prow of the boat all the way to this second Island on our tour.

I had just received a very disturbing reply to a letter from a dear friend who I hurt with my words, and I found the trip a soothing opportunity to consider many things in my life. I get a lot of letters as I take this journey and sometimes I wonder if I lose my perspective and hurt the people I love because I'm not connected to my old world the way I was. To those of you who feel I have become insensitive to the 'Real' world as I travel in my bubble of self discovery, I am truly sorry.
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We arrived on this Island just in time to watch the sunset. There are two beaches here, that are appropriately named, sunrise and sunset beach.
This is Dennis watching the amazing speed of the Sun setting over the Gulf.

This is a picture I caught within moments of this same sunset. This is how I think of Thailand; such beauty and tranquility in a setting of ancient tradition.

The night we arrived was 'Half Moon Party Night'. We met so many people that day who looked at Dennis and said: "Hey man, you are just in time for this party." Dennis really does remind me of the original Hippie in the way he looks.

We met three Brits as we headed to the Hot spot of the Island; 'Hat Rin'. They told us this is the place to really party. They pointed out 'The Mellow Bar' where you climb a long winding stairway and go for a special milkshake.

This is 'The Mellow Bar' at night. The Bar serves Magic mushroom milkshakes, which are legal in Thailand. The shakes cost 500 baht each and are said to be extremely potent. The day after this party, the Brits told us they had a couple of shakes each and sat on the floor of the bar for five hours just giggling as they hallucinated. Just for the record, Dennis and I spent the night walking the beach and watching movies in the Bars. Dennis may look like a wild crazy hippie but in reality he's just a very nice guy. That's why I hang out with him. If you want to find out about the drunken orgies that take place at these Parties you'll need to read someone else's Blog. We were back at our Guest House that night by 11pm fast asleep.

Koh Tao 2

Koh Tao is a beautiful Island to relax on.

This rock behind me holds a Monogram inscribed when the King of Thailand first visited this Island. The Rock is considered sacred. Our Bungalow was just a few yards from this monument.

I spent a very relaxing day talking with Nicole, while it rained. It has only rained one day since I arrived in Thailand on February 5th. Nicole is from East Germany and saw the Berlin wall torn down. I asked her what it was like. She says it was exciting but she was only ten years old at the time so it didn't have the same impact on her as it had on her countrymen. She has travelled for several years and is certified in Scuba diving, Computer Technology, Thai Massage and speaks seven languages. When she's not relaxing she runs a small Country somewhere.
Nicole was also on the Beach the day the Tsunami hit Phuket. She says she had been sleeping in her hut and had just gone for breakfast when the wave came in. Her hut was totally gone and she would have died had she been in it an hour before.

This was Dennis's occupation on Koh Tao; holding the waves in place. His relatives insist I show him in the Blog every so often so they can keep an eye on him. He's still losing weight Angie, and is still a major chick magnet.

Litton is from Sydney Australia. He suggested the bungalow we stayed in. I love the serendipity of just meeting a traveller as you're walking down the path and he ends up giving you just the information you need when you need it.

I finally figured out the master plan of mosquitoes. It's not about biting. It's about recreating the stars of the night sky on my leg; one bump at a time...

These birds are exactly like the string of birds I talked about in the story: Calgary to Thailand in 2 Minutes. The psychic who gave them to me said they had belonged to someone who met the Dali Lama and that I will meet him too.

And here we have the turtle mascot for the Island.

We took a walk around the outcropping of rocks on our last day.

I never knew I could feel so peaceful as I did on this Island. Dennis and I would get up; usually very early and swim in the ocean, and dry off in the sun and drink coffee and cool down in the ocean again. Time just didn't mean a thing. I wish all of you that same sense of peace that I have felt here on Koh Tao.

Koh Tao (Turtle Island)

*WARNING: THE FOLLOWING ARTICLE CONTAINS IDYLLIC IMAGES AND DESCRIPTIONS OF PARADISE THAT MIGHT BE OFFENSIVE TO SOME SNOW-BOUND READERS. VIEWER DISCRETION IS ADVISED.*


What I enjoy most as I snorkel in the coral reef surrounding this beautiful Island, is how the current carries the marine life and myself, by the same sway of the current, back and forth, like an effortless dance of nature. The buoyancy of the salt water holds my body on the surface as I watch the pastel of fishes swim past.

I am in awe of the pastel colors that swim quietly before me. The coral reef looks like some archaeological ruins beneath the waves. I glide over a shallow reef to a deep section that drops off to twelve feet beneath me with a bright white sanding bottom to it. Suddenly a large rainbow colored fish swims out from it's hiding place.

The just as suddenly, a school of a thousand minnows flash before me, all swimming in perfect harmony, never touching, suddenly reversing direction; the color of quick silver. I swim into them but they miraculously swim all around me, never touching me; like the amplitude of a symphony, secretly played out in this eternal Sea.

Dennis wanted you to see what a day at the office looks like today from his point of view.

And remember what I've been saying about dogs hanging around us all the time?

We were sitting having breakfast when we suddenly noticed this little guy with us. I asked Dennis to take this picture and he said: "this should be good to get the dog in it too. I didn't even know he was under my hammock til that moment. I feel so protected where ever I go. Meliss, is that you in a new disguise?

Khun-nah-rauk-mah: "You are most kind"

Dennis and I have had the extraordinary good fortune to get to know two Thai women in the last few days. They opened their homes and their generous hearts to us.

Toi (we call her Monkey because of her playful nature) is a 33 year old Sales Rep for a company that manufactures capacitors for Air Conditioning units.(I hope I got that right Monkey) This is Monkey standing beside a Monkey puppet.

Jook is 32 years old and holds a Bachelor of Arts degree. She is the Assistant Manager for her Sales division at Samsung.
Dennis met these two women while Cycling in Ayutthaya a few weeks ago, along with another woman who usually travels with Monkey and Jook. Her name is Tina. I haven't met her yet.

When we got back from Koh Samet on Sunday night, Jook invited me to stay with her and her two sisters for a few days while Dennis and I figured out our next travel plans.

This is Jook's apartment. She owns her apartment but Monkey just rents one here.

This is the hallway just outside her apartment. You notice how much bigger the hallways are here? The concept of living and space is very different here. You don't just live in your own little box. Everything is connected here.

This is Cheemah. He is the security guard at the apartment complex here. He and Dennis hit it off right away and so Cheemah started saluting Dennis whenever he passed through the gate. This ritual now includes a 'high five' each time he goes past now. When Jook was with us the other day and Cheemah saluted, she looked up at me puzzled and I replied: "It's a Canadian thing."(The building in the background is the Apartment complex Monkey and Jook live in. To the right of it is a Steel Mill. Yes, you read that right; a Steel Mill.

On Monday night, Jook prepared a typical Thai dinner for us.

As you can see, fish is a big part of the Thai diet.

Here's an esoteric event for you. As I was sitting in Vancouver Airport, I was talking to a dear friend of mine and I suddenly saw a movie showing of a hummingbird going from flower to flower collecting nectar. The first morning I was staying with Jook and her sisters, Jook was wearing this night shirt.

I suddenly realized that the print on it was the exact hummingbird and flower I saw in the film.
Both of these women work very long hours. They get up at 5:30am, go to work by 6:30 and usually don't get home til 8pm. Then they listen to some music or watch a bit of TV and go to bed. That's why they like to arrange trips as a threesome, so they can enjoy life and not just be in the same rut.

On Monday night they took us to a large Mall that is North of their city. It looks very much like the Malls back in Canada. Many of the brand names are the same too. But the prices tend to be about 25% to 50% of our costs.
This is a Thai restaurant they took us to for dinner afterwards. Speaking of which, the one thing we really had to catch onto was that they would pay for everything if we didn't watch out. There were so many times when I would carefully watch as Jook would talk to the waiter. It seemed that she only spoke a few words to him and then the next thing I knew, we had a four course meal sitting in front of us.

Last night, they had arranged for us to go to a special Puppet Theatre but we got there late, so we just walked around an Art Gallery in the place and took pictures of Monkey and Jook wearing their elegant dresses. Jook bought this dress just for this night.

I warned the two women that when they had these pictures taken they would now be famous and it was very likely they would be mistaken for Movie Stars.

We headed just outside the Gallery to an open air restaurant (is there any other kind in Bangkok?)

People keep asking me about the food so I like to embarrass myself in public places by shooting photos. The waiters seems to like it though.

Now this is what I was talking about. Jook just reaches over and starts putting things on my plate for me. Then she explains which order to eat everything in and what sauces to use. These two women just made us feel so special.

They are very different women. Jook is innocent and naive in many ways and Monkey is very worldly in her understanding of life. But both share that same nature I have encountered again and again in this mystical country; that open loving heart for all people.
When Jook was helping me to learn to speak Thai she taught me something new to add to thank you (cup une cup). She said that when someone does you a great kindness, you say these words and put the accent on the last word, to acknowledge a deeper sense of appreciation. So I'm sure Dennis joins me when I say to you, Monkey and to you Jook:

Cup-une-cup,Khun-nah-rauk-mah: "You are most kind"