Leaving Agra

Agra, India; January 12, 2007
This story is from my recent Journey in India
Exploring Agra has been a very satisfying and tiring experience. After seeing the Taj, Mannie, our auto rickshaw driver, wants to take us to some more places but we say no. Now comes the part I have been dreading. This morning when he begged us to let him be our guide in Agra, he said: "You are my guests" and "As you like". Well, he was okay but we found we had to reign him in a lot during the adventure. Mannie kept trying to take us to tourist emporiums and we kept saying no. And when we insisted he stop heading to the next one, he would give us an aggravated look of disappointment to show us that his 'guests' were not doing 'as he liked'. At the end of the day we think his services are worth 400 rupees and the trip from the train station to the hotel, another hundred. I pay him 500 rupees ($15 CAD). He argues that it is not enough but I hold my ground. When he realizes I'm not going to budge, he finally pastes the happy-go-lucky face back on and bids us a fond 'Namaste'.

It's early morning now. Our next stop is Rajasthan and our train is scheduled to leave at 6pm. But now at 8am there is still no sign of it. There are many people sleeping on the concrete floor around us. These children and their mother are waiting for the same train. Notice the snow suits. This is as cold as it gets in India. Aw thinks 20 degrees Celsius is cold enough but this ain't Thailand. Children always gravitate to Aw where ever we go. And she blends right in. People assume she is Indian. We wait for the train on this cold platform for 3 hours before we finally give up. The deal is that after three hours you can get a full refund on your tickets, so we do. We get on a bus to Jaipur instead. This is one bumpy ride though. The roads in this part of India are full of potholes. But at least we are on our way again.

Remember Now

The lesson I keep reminding myself of is: we are all Travelers all the time. I have traveled so much in the last three years that I don't see things as a 'Canadian' anymore. I try to keep my eyes open and get out of the way of the experience.Melbah and I are out looking at a construction project here in Waterloo. We happen to drive by this park and without talking, she pulls the car over and we go for a walk. This view is as beautiful as the Mountain regions of Chiang Mai Thailand, or the Islands of Halong Bay, Vietnam. And it's right here, right now. But then we hear the sudden blast, like a fire extinguisher and realize there are three hot-air balloons being inflated right across the street. One of my dreams is to take a flight in a balloon one day. We stand in a crowd and watch as this balloon begins to rise up. We all give a collective cheer as it lifts off the ground and disappears into the sky.
Life is so magical. 'Remember' I keep saying to myself, like a mantram; 'Be Here Now'.

Sunday Buggies

Waterloo, Ontario, Canada, April 29, 2007

My Mom is taking me for a tour in the countryside around Waterloo, Ontario. There is a strong Mennonite community here and she wants to show me the parking lot at their prayer meeting, but we get to see a lot more than we expected.

Just we were coming up to the church we were greeted by a long procession of horse-drawn buggies. Mom says she has tried for the last ten years to see what we're seeing today. We park at the side of the road as the whole community passes by our car.These coaches look ancient but the red triangle on the back gives them a futuristic look at the same time. What an amazing introduction to rural Ontario. Thanks so much for sharing this event with me, Mom.

Retiring In Siem Reap

Siem Reap, Cambodia, April 12, 2007
This is a story from my recent trip to Cambodia.

Dennis is from Canada. I met him in Chiang Mai, Thailand in 2005. We were both looking for postcards and struck up a conversation. We ended up traveling together for the next month in Thailand. [Read The Story Here]
Dennis was taking a year off to cycle around Asia when I met him. That might not sound so amazing until you realize that Dennis over sixty years old. We've kept in touch since then. Then last year he wrote to say he had met a woman in Siem Reap, Cambodia and that they were going to settle down together. He wants to work in Canada for a couple more years to build up a better pension before retiring in Siem Reap with his sweetie.
Aw and I are here in Siem Reap right now, so I wrote Dennis on the chance he might be here right now, too. It turns out he's back in Canada working. I asked him if he would send some photos of his partner and new baby. His partner's name is 'Kunthea'. What a lovely woman. Dennis looked at the other stories I wrote about Siem Reap and recognizes some of the people we met. He says he knows the restaurants and waitresses shown in my stories here. He also tells me that their home in Seim Reap is only four minutes from where we are right now. And this is their new baby; 'Angel'. Sorry Dennis but I'm just guessing from the name that your baby is a girl, right? Angel will celebrate (her?) first birthday on May 17th. What a great pair they are. Way to go Dennis. This is an amazing step to be making at this time in your life. I wish the three of you, all the best. You're moving to a wonderful City. Many foreigners are retiring here in Siem Reap. It's very inexpensive to live here and the City is showing amazing progress economically. I find it easy to travel for a thousand dollars (CAD) per month in Cambodia. You can imagine from that figure, how well you could do on a pension.

Ticket To India

Today I went to Nippon Travel to get my tickets for Asia.

Okay, here's my plug for my travel agent. Elaine is fantastic. She had to change my travel plans five times before we were done. And she got me a great price. She managed to get me a flight from Toronto to Vancouver on Christmas Eve. She has me arriving in Bangkok in time to make my other connections for New Delhi India at just the time I wanted.
A few weeks ago, I thought I would have to arrive in Asia on New Year's Eve. But then she suddenly found me a ticket for December 24th. I told Elaine I couldn't go on Christmas or my Mom would kill me. A couple of days later I tried to score Brownie points with Mom by letting her know what a loyal son I was being by staying with her in Waterloo on Christmas. Her reply shocked me. "I don't care if you're here for Christmas. You're going to be here for the three weeks anyway. Take the ticket and go."
So everything is working out great. Thanks Elaine. Thanks Mom. India here I come.
...So you don't want me home on Christmas eh Mom?...

Da Nang To Hue

Hue, Vietnam, March 25 2006

My faithful driver, Bonsoon drops me off at the Tour Bus station in Da Nang. I get on this bus and head to Hue (H00-eh), the ancient capital of Vietnam. I'm feeling a bit disoriented. Things are happening very fast here.

The only place available for me to sit on the bus is the bench seat at the very back. I throw my pack behind me and pull in. A few minutes later the bus stops and one more passenger gets on board. He bounces down the aisle to me and asks me: 'Mind if I sit here too.' 'Sure, no problem.' And so begins a magical conversation.
"My name is Foo",he tells me with a grin. I introduce myself. The next thing I know we are having a deep discussion about women and the synchronicity of life. Foo tells me that he owns a Bar in Hue called 'Brown Eyes'. He also says that he just said good-bye to a woman he was dating who is just heading back to Europe where she lives. As we get talking he tells me how much it helps him to have someone to talk to because he thought he was going to have a very sad trip home, thinking about this woman he has left behind. I tell him it's great to have him to talk to as well since I'm just heading into new territory myself. Foo has a very positive outlook on life and lots of energy. He's a free spirit. We agree that we meet each other at just the right time and although it might hurt to leave his new girlfriend it's still important to let ourselves experience the pain , not try to forget it. "We don't learn by forgetting" I tell him. He starts telling me how wise I am but I point out that I got that line from the Movie: 'Poltergeist II'. Then we talk about a Universal definition for 'Evil' that I got in a dream once. "Evil is to make less of what is good."
As we fly along the highway in our bus, we see the diverse countryside. Here we have ancient fishtail boats and modern billboards all in the same setting.

And there are apartment buildings right in the center of lush green pastures. The whole trip is surreal as we compare notes on romance and philosophy. Foo makes life so easy for me as we arrive in Hue. He takes me to a cheap Guesthouse and invites me to visit his bar later. I don't take any photos of him now but I will later.

This is my trip here in Vietnam. Everything happens so fast and I seem to meet the right people at just the right time to take the next step in my Journey.

Hoi An to Da Nang

Da Nang, Vietnam, March 25 2006

After my experience at 'Marble Mountain' I am feeling very mellow. Bonsoon takes me to Da Nang, which is the city very near the DMZ ; the boarder that separated North from South Vietnam. Now this is a thriving place.


I noticed the old and the new here. Beautiful new buildings going up everywhere and old trucks from the Seventies right next to modern vehicles on new paved roads.

I don't know what this tower is but it reflects what I'm seeing everywhere in Vietnam. This is an up and coming Country with a lot of talented people doing the building.
My guide takes me for a spin around the city for half an hour while we wait for my Tour bus to arrive. Now this is a site I keep trying to capture on film for you to see. These four people are trying to balance a large white chest on the back of that motorcycle. I see amazing things loaded on the bikes for transport in heavy traffic. Earlier today I actually saw a man transporting a large piece of plate glass on his bike. He was balancing it in his knees, sideways so that he was looking through it like you would look through a window. If he slips, he cuts himself to ribbons. I also have seen people carrying ten foot poles on their motor bikes. They look like jousters. I don't even like to think about it.
There is the old right beside the new here. This guy is pulling his large cart like a rickshaw. A minute after I took this photo, the man with the motorbike put this guy on the back and he pulled his cart by the handles, at twenty kilometres an hour, on the bike. I don't know how he kept from falling off backwards. Bonsoon sees me cringing and saying things to myself as we pass these scenes and he just gives me a whimsical smile and keeps driving.
The good news about Vietnam is that they use an English alphabet. I still don't know what these billboards say most of the time, but at least I can read the letters.

Time's up. I'm at my destination. I give Bonsoon twice the amount of money I promised him in our agreement, and we shake hands in fond farewell. When I travel I feel very safe most of the time because I seem to always meet someone to take me on the next step of my journey and to watch my back. And you were that for me Bonsoon. 'Coum on' and all the best to your family.

My Son Ruins

Hoi An, Vietnam, March 24 2006

I don't know what possessed me to think I should see everything in the Hoi An area in one day but I did. After a few hours looking around the City, I looked in my 'Let's Go' travel guide and decided it made sense to see 'My Son'. What was I thinking?

The trip took us an hour and a half by motor bike, in the blazing sun. Bonsoon never seems to get tired and I refuse to act my age so off we go.

I want to show you what it looks like as you tour this country. The architecture is very interesting and the quality of the workmanship is very high.
As we head into the rural towns we see many more bicycles and fewer motor bikes. Sometimes it's astounding to me just how much stuff they haul this way.

I saw lots of trucks like this one, which seem to be left over from the 'American War', although I wonder if they're even older than that. It's amazing that they are still running so well after all these years.
And here you see the old and new together. The traditional homes are still standing but there are many brand new structures springing up everywhere.
We finally arrive at the 'My Son' Ruins. This ancient city was built in the 4th Century and is now a UNESCO site. I was greeted by 50 Tour guides in training; mostly young girls, who were delighted to have me join them as they toured the sight while learning how to conduct the tour themselves. One girl started interviewing me. "So how do you feel?" she asked as we all piled into the Van that took us to the site. "Cramped." I replied, and they all laughed. I felt really welcome here.
Here is one of the Temples on the Site. One of my Tour Guide Cuties is posing for me to show the size of the structure. 'My Son' is primarily a Hindu civilization. Much of the work to uncover it's secrets are just taking place now. And one of the biggest financial contributors to the excavation is the United States Government.
This is one of the Carvings that was found when they pulled back the jungle to reveal this City. I have no shortage of lovely guides to pose for the photos.
I later ran into this man from Vietnam who was on vacation, like me. As I said before, the big difference in Vietnam is that the people of this Country tour right along with the foreigners. You rarely see this in Thailand.
This Guide was one of the best English speakers of the group. I was a celebrity to them and they were as honored to be with me as I was to join them. We all laughed together and had a wonderful time comparing our cultures and talking about our common dreams to explore this planet.
This is a couple I met as I finished my look around the site. People are so approachable here.
Bonsoon waited at the gate to the Site while I did my tour. I have ridden with him on his motor bike since ten this morning and it's three in the afternoon now. We have another hour and a half ride back to Hoi An. As we head out he mentions that his home town is nearby. He asks me if I would like to meet his family. So naturally I say yes. My butt is going to need a blood transfusion when this day is done. And off we go to his village.

Ayako Shares Thanksgiving

On Sunday, I asked Ayako what she would like to see in Calgary; The Calgary Zoo? or perhaps Heritage Park? Her answer was:
"I want go Grocery Store!" So I took her to 'Canada Superstore'.

We did the low tech version of an amusement park. I know this is no Calgary Stampede, but she still had her chance to ride a horse.

Halloween is a special celebration we have in Canada. We carve faces in pumpkins like this one and put them in our windows to attract children dressed up in costumes.

Ayako san was delighted to find this costume. Pickachu is a very popular cartoon in Canada and in Japan.

After our Supermarket adventure, we headed to Geeta's for a Thanksgiving celebration. Geeta put on a wonderful feast of Curries, Chicken breasts and Lamb, with lots of vegetables and sauces. Everyone contributed something. Her children even made the place settings for the table.

What really made it so magical on this night though, was the company. The women in the front row are: Judy, Judy's mother; Margaret, and Marjory. Margaret is a War Bride from London. She told us amazing stories of her trek across Canada to arrive at her new home. Marjory is Geeta's next door neighbor. She is from Scotland and has also travelled extensively.

Geeta's family has Hindu roots in India but she is from Kenya. This is what I call a proper Canadian Thanksgiving Celebration. So many cultures sharing the best of Ourselves with each
other.

This morning, Ted and I got up at 5am to take Ayako san to the Bus Depot.

She will travel today, through the mountains of Alberta and British Columbia. Then she will she the Okanogan Valley, where some of our best Wines come from. Finally, at the end of her 15 hour journey, she will be met by my niece; Millie; who is the same age as Ayako. They will hang out together in Vancouver until Thursday, when Ayako san will fly back to Calgary for a final night in Canada before returning to Japan.

I got a very nice email from Ayako's father, last night. He said: "Dear steeeve. Today I see your Blog. I find Ayako enjoying travel. Pig cake , Nice friend ,and BIg Turtle , Every Picture Ayako show amusing face. I see her amusing fece after a long time. She looks like in junior school child. Thank you your kindness. cheers; Yosihiro."
It is our pleasure to have Ayako san here in Canada. You and your wife must be very special people to have raised such a yasashii daughter. Arigotto, Yashihiro san.

Air France Fire

You know how people say: "Where were you when...?" Well, on August 2nd, when the Air France Plane crash-landed in Toronto, I was there. I was getting ready to move my tools and some of my things, to Calgary where I will be doing Carpentry with my buddy Ted, for the next four months.

First let me say in my defense, even though I look fat in this picture, it's not quite so. I hear my friends in Thailand smiling and saying: "four month Stevie...Four month" referring to my state of pregnancy. But the fact is my body is contorted here as I pull 140 pounds of luggage behind me. I thought I was allowed to take two bags weighing up to 70lbs each on the Plane. As it turned out, I could only take 44lbs total. Thanks Vivyan and Dorian for saving my bacon by sending my bag to me by freight.

When I arrived at Pearson International Airport, near Toronto, Ontario, there was an incredible lightening storm. Just after I arrived in the departure lounge I heard an intermittent siren, indicating that the Airport was shut down in a state of code red, meaning that no ground vehicles were allowed on the tarmac. I saw bolts of lightening striking the runway every few seconds for a while. Then there was a driving rain.

Soon after this (around 2pm I think), I saw a crowd forming at the large windows overlooking the runway. I looked out and saw a plume of smoke and a group of emergency vehicles sped down the runway.

My Flight was with 'Sky Service'. The desk agents never said a word to us though. All they said was that the Airport was shut down from the storm. We waited for seven hours for news on whether we would actually be flying that day but all the Sky Service Staff would tell us was that they didn't know anything yet. The truth was that our Plane had been rerouted to another airport hours earlier and our flight had been cancelled all along. Finally at 9pm we were told our flight had been rescheduled for the next day and that we should all go away until 5am the next morning. Passengers started converging on the Flight desk, demanding free accommodation or at least some kind of financial help for their trouble. There were a lot of families with small children and nowhere for them to sleep that night. I actually thought our lounge might turn into a mob scene for a while. Finally, around 10pm, people started to calm down and I left the airport to spend the night with Vivyan and Dorian, nearby in Etobicoke.

As I was waiting for my bus, I met Joseph, who had just got off his shift as a security guard in the Arrivals lounge. He was on duty when the Air France Plane skidded off the runway. He told me he didn't actually see the plane but he saw many of the people who were waiting for friends and relatives from that flight. He told me: "people were freaking out when they saw the smoke. They thought everyone had died." Joseph and I talked about what a miracle it was that all the passengers actually survived such a terrible fire.

Here is what the Air France Plane looked like by the time the fire was put out. I do find it amazing that no one died.

The following day when I arrived at the Airport, there was a voucher for each passenger worth seventy-five dollars towards a future flight. Our flight did leave on time, at 7am, Wednesday morning. This is the view I had of the City Centre of Calgary as I arrived four hours later.

Back To Canada

Waterloo, Ontario, Canada, May 5, 2005

I loved being in Thailand but I look forward to having a chance to reflect on this wonderful adventure and see if from the perspective of my own Country.

I arrived at Bangkok Airport at 5am. I have Two new pieces of luggage for the trip home; a garment bag with my Armani suit in it, and a second bag to hold my souvenirs and presents for my family.

As I was waiting to check in for my flight I noticed a Buddhist Monk on the other side of the Terminal. A few minutes later I found myself sitting next to him. This is Julian. He has been a monk in Wat Mapjun (Mapjun Temple) for the last 8 years. He's on his way to Nelson B.C. Canada to visit his parents. He hasn't seen them since he entered the Temple. He studies Theraradin Buddhism 'theraradin' referring to the goal of enlightenment. As we talked, I showed him my amulet. I got if from my dear friends in Ubon Ratchithani. Julian recognized the Monk as 'Luang Pu Tuad' who is one of the most renowned Monks in Thailand. As it turns out, this amulet is used as a protection for travellers. In my Post, 'Joy in Ubon', I told the story of how I had the impulse to take off my Saint Christopher's medal and put on a different amulet that I traded later that day for the one I wear now. So without knowing it, I exchanged one amulet for travel protection for another.

Julian and I both smiled at the irony as I told him that story. Thanks Julian, for helping me put another piece of the puzzle together.

My flight from Bangkok to Hong Kong took off at 8am.

Here is a view of Taiwan (I think)

I arrived in Hong Kong three hours later. I then had a 4 hour wait and then boarded an Air Canada flight for Toronto Canada.

Here is a view out my window as we flew over Northern Ontario.

Thomas was sitting next to me on my flight. He was in Hong Kong visiting his 92 year old grandmother who is very sick. He expects she will not be around much longer and wanted to stay but he had to get back. At least you had a chance to see her once more Thomas. Just after we had our first on board meal, Thomas became very ill, throwing up and feeling feverish. It turned out to be a very tough trip for him.

I flew for 15 hours straight before arriving in Toronto. When I arrived, I was met by my brother Michael, my sister Melba Toasty and my Mom; alias 'Squiddy'.

My whole trip back to Canada took a total of 26 hours. Here I am back at my Mom's home. "Welcome home, roomy" she said.

I want to say hello to my dear friends in Thailand who changed my life and my perspective, forever. As I left the Thai Jet, I was given this orchid, which is the official flower of the Buddha. I'm also holding a beautiful cardholder; a gift that I use to hold the cards that have my Blog address on them.

I brought this Thai Buddha back with me and it sits in the living room of my Mom's place now. This is my way to honor the beautiful people who have taught me so much and shown me that the secret of Paradise is not the place but the people. 'Cup khun Crup. Khun na rak mah'.